One lazy afternoon, I went to visit the Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence in Shau Kei Wan. Whenever I find myself in Shau Kei Wan, I have to grab a bite on its 'eat street' - Main Street East - where the eateries offer everything from curry to congee, from dumplings to desserts etc etc.
That day I went with one of the street's most famous: On Lee Noodle, a popular fish ball noodles restaurant that has been operating since 1966. I remember queuing up outside their old store (also on this street) for a bowl of noodles with my parents some years ago. As a testament to their growing success and popularity amongst even non-locals, I was surprised to find that they now even had English on their menu.
However, apart from the English, this is still one of those typical HK fast-food style restaurants where the waiters expect you to know what you want before you even walk in the door. As soon as you sit down (usually at a communal table with 4 or 5 complete strangers) the waiter appears at your side ready to take your order. Their attitude is, get you in and get you out so that someone else waiting at the door can take your seat.
I opted for the rice noodles with fish balls and fish slice cake heads (魚蛋片頭河). The fish slice cake heads refers to the ends of the fish slice cake which are often perceived to be the tastiest bits because of the extra fried skin on them - there are no actual fish heads involved. On Lee is also known for its dry noodles mixed with soya sauce, which can be accompanied by beef brisket, fish balls, wontons etc.
Although people say the standard of the food here has dropped in recent years, I still thought that the noodles and in particular the fish slice cake heads were pretty tasty. But then again I am slowly learning that locals, with the abundance of food choices on offer to them and their discerning tastebuds, can be fairly hard to satisfy.
On Lee Noodle, 55 Main Street East, Shau Kei Wan, Hong Kong
A picture of the Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence, which I did not expect to find here on the side of a hill surrounded by greenery. Well worth a visit.
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